There are numerous products that will kill adult fleas on your dog. However, they vary in the duration of their effects.
1. Flea shampoos, sprays, and powders. Most products will kill any fleas present on your dog at the time of application, but many have no lasting effect - your dog may have more fleas within 24 hours of being treated. When using a flea shampoo, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful. All shampoos should be rinsed thoroughly from the coat.
Some of the newer, more effective sprays can be a valuable part of the overall treatment plan. They kill adult fleas rapidly and are safe enough to use daily, if necessary. Flea sprays containing insect growth regulators (IGR's) are helpful in managing the overall problem because they help to break the flea life cycle. Be sure to read the label when using any of these products, because they might be recommended for once a week application, instead of daily.
Flea powders are easy to use - simply sprinkle on your dog's coat.
2. Flea rinses or dips. These may be effective for four to five days, depending on the product. The rinse is applied after the dog has been shampooed and not rinsed out and left to dry on the dog's coat. You need to dip the entire dog from nose to tail. Follow directions carefully regarding frequency throughout the flea season.
Pet shops and supermarkets sell a huge variety of flea dips and shampoos for your pet. If your dog has only a few fleas, there's no reason why you can't treat him yourself. Make sure to follow the label instructions on whatever product you buy, and pay close attention to age restrictions. Many products are not suitable for young puppies. Never use cat products on dogs.
As with flea shampoos, when using a flea dip, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful.
You might want to take your dog to the veterinarian where either an assistant or a groomer on staff will dip your pet, or take your dog to a grooming shop for flea treatment.
3. Sprays containing flea growth regulators which are called IGR's. These sprays are usually applied weekly and the growth regulators help break the flea's life cycle.
4. Flea collars. Flea collars are an easy, economical, and useful method of flea control when used before you see fleas, but aren't very effective if you already a flea problem. Flea collars are on the dog and working 24 hours per day. However, they are not very effective in climates that are especially conducive to flea reproduction. Many people don't like the smell of insecticidal flea collars or the smell and oily feeling the insecticide leaves on their hands after petting a dog wearing one. But, they are a lot better than nothing!
Many flea collars, such as the Ovitrol Plus or Ovitrol Plus II sold by veterinarians, kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile. These are generally called Egg-Stopper Collars and contain insect growth regulating ingredients, which prevents egg from hatching.
Some dogs are sensitive to flea collars and develop a skin irritation under the collar, so if this happens, you should remove the collar and use another method of flea control.
In addition, there are High Tech Electronic Flea Collars for dogs that emit powerful ultrasonic pulses. They are supposed to be inaudible and harmless to pets and humans but, fleas go crazy!
Do-it-yourself Low Tech Herbal flea collar - effects last approximately one month:
Buy a soft untreated flea collar. Mix 1/2 teaspoon rubbing alcohol, essential oils of 1 drop cedar wood oil, 1 drop lavender, 1 drop citronella, 1 drop thyme oil. Open the contents of four garlic capsules into mixture. Soak flea collar until it has absorbed sufficient mixture soaked through, then let dry.
5. Spot-on products. Advantage® and Frontline® are two brand name products that are applied topically to a small area of the dog's skin and they effectively kill fleas for at least a month. They are purchased in small vials that contain one dose for various sizes of dogs. They kill adult fleas, usually before the flea has the opportunity to bite your dog.
When using some of the new residual topical treatments such as the spray and the liquid applied to the dog's neck, you may find environmental control will become much less a concern. In some cases, treating the dog with these new products will effectively control the environmental problem.
6. The pill. (Program™) This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the animal's weight. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. This drug does not kill the adult fleas on your dog, but it does break the flea life cycle by preventing hatching of the next generation of flea eggs. In effect, it kills the next generation of fleas.
A similar product called Sentinel contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.
7. Natural methods include essential herbal oils, essential fatty acids, garlic, and/or B vitamins tend to make the animal less tasty to fleas. You can supplement with garlic or brewers yeast tablets. Some animals are allergic to brewers yeast, so watch closely the first week or so to make sure the itching doesn't get worse.
8. Flea Combs. Run the comb through your pet's hair and gather a bit of hair and "flea dirt". Daily flea combing may seem like a tedious process, but you can trap some of them in the comb. Be sure to drown them in soapy water, because fleas can jump out of plain water.
Every year the American Kennel Club releases the number of dogs registered for each dog breed, and that information is used to discover the favorite dog breeds in the United States for that year. Here are the AKC favorites for 2006:
- Labrador Retriever (137,867)
- Golden Retriever (48,509)
- Yorkshire Terrier (47,238)
- German Shepherd Dog (45,014)
- Beagle (42,592)
- Dachshund (38,566)
- Boxer (37,268)
- Poodle (31,638)
- Shih Tzu (28,087)
- Miniature Schnauzer (24,144)
Compare this list with the top ten dogs from the United Kingdom's list:
- Labrador Retriever
- English Cocker Spaniel
- English Springer Spaniel
- German Shepherd Dog
- Staffordshire Bull Terrier
- Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
- Golden Retriever
- West Highland Terrier
- Boxer
- Border Terrier
Interesting that there are several dog breeds in the U.K. top ten list that are not near the top ten in the United States.
In the United States the Labrador Retriever has been in the number one position for 16 years in a row. Meanwhile the Chihuahua slipped from 10th place to number 11th, replaced by the Miniature Schnauzer.
It's not surprising that the two most popular dog breeds in the United States and Canada are the Labrador Retriever and the Golden Retriever. Both are such wonderful dogs to own with their easy-going nature and high intelligence.
These two dog breeds, along with the German Shepherd Dog, made the top ten dog list in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. The Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever make great dogs for families and are listed in a top ten list of dogs for children.
In the same list of “child-friendly dogs” are the Beagle, Poodle, French Bulldog, Pug, Cairn Terrier, Old English Sheepdog, King Charles Spaniel and Cocker Spaniel, several of which made the AKC top ten dog list.
Looking at the United States AKC top ten dog list the Yorkshire Terrier has moved up to third place, it’s highest point since it became recognized by the AKC in 1885. With their spirited, loving yet willful personality, they deserve to be among the top ten popular dog breeds. Their only drawback is the daily grooming required, but that’s little inconvenience compared to the love they give.
While the Labrador Retriever has been number one since 1991, the breed that held the number one position the longest is the Cocker Spaniel, from 1936 to 1952 and again from 1983 to 1990 for a total of 23 years. Watch for the Labrador Retriever to beat that record.
The Poodle comes in a very close second for the number of years as America’s favorite breed; 1960 to 1982, a total of 22 years. It was in 1972 that the large breeds took over as America’s favorites when the Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers and Chow Chows rose in popularity throughout the 1980s and 1990s.
By comparison, small dogs held anywhere from one to four slots in the top ten at that time. However, as we entered into the new millennium small dogs have increased in popularity among Americans, perhaps due to their portability or perhaps because celebrities are making these smaller breeds more visible.
Notice all the small dogs that are in the list of the 11-20 most popular:
- Chihuahua (23,575)
- Pug (22,064)
- Bulldog (20,556)
- Pomeranian (19,511)
- Cocker Spaniel (16,343)
- Rottweiler (15,916)
- Boston Terrier (15,852)
- Shetland Sheepdog (14,278)
- Maltese (13,676)
- German Shorthaired Pointer (13,273)
Four of these dogs are from the AKCs Toy group and another, the Boston Terrier, is a small dog from the Terrier group. Add the five small dogs from the top ten list and that’s why the new millennium seems to belong to the small dog.
Whatever your favorite breed, we can all agree that dogs continue to hold a very special place in the hearts of millions of Americans, and this is a bond that needs no special breed at all.
Copyright 2006 Carol Stack
Carol Stack has been working with dogs for over three decades. She and her daughter Christy have put up a web site to help others discover how to choose, care for and train their dogs: http://www.christysdogportal.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Stack
The first thing you should understand about alleged “behavior problems” is that they are rarely a problem for the dog. Chances are pretty good that he enjoys digging up your garden, tilting over the trash, jumping on you, chasing any cat or un-stuffing the couch.
Problem correction, like command training, has an expected sequence of steps you must follow to be successful:
Prevent Unwanted Practice
Before you could attempt to any changes make sure that you are not creating another problem. If you don’t give the dog what he requires, a proper diet, plenty of exercise and daily dealings or if you give him more than what he can actually handle, crate him for long hours, constantly excite him or may be frighten him frequently, he would not be able to give you his best.
Now prevent the accidents until you and your dog are actually prepared. Crating, closing doors, moving the cat box or bowl, or may be keeping him on lead with you are just a few ways to minimize mischief. When you leave, lock him safely.
Teach Better
Always give your dog a way to succeed, a way to earn rewards. With behavior problems, ask your self “What behavior we want?”
Often “sit” is a normal option. A dog who is sitting cannot be jumping up, stealing food from the kids counter tops etc... One of the best ways to address a surplus behavior is to just spend several days working on the desired alternative until your dog would do it quickly and more reliably by clearly directing him to the desired behavior, he quickly learns how to earn approval and rewards.
Practice
Behavior problems can not be willed away. It doesn’t really help to think about crating him or to think setting up a training situation. Do it. We’ve seen people resolve similar difficult canine problems for which we held out little hope of recovery. It has achieved through pure diligence and pure commitment. Not every problem has a solution, but most they do and that solution is 100% dependent on you. Take the time and create a minor miracle.
It goes without saying that your dog needs suitable nutrition to remain healthy. Vets and pet food manufacturers often have differing views on appropriate nutrition for your dog. Although commercial pet food manufacturers are motivated in large part by profits, commercially prepared foods are routinely recommended as part of an adequate, or good, diet for your dog. Sometimes your vet or dog breeder may approve of commercially prepared foods as your dog’s sole diet. Many experts, however, tend to prefer a largely natural diet which for dogs is invariably comprised of meat and bones. Raw is preferable to cooked, as some of the minerals are definitely lost in the cooking process.
The reason why the commercially prepared pet food is so often fed to our dogs, is because, apart from the convenience, it can (depending upon the quality) actually contain many of the nutrients which are essential to your dog’s wellbeing. The key word here is quality. There are in fact very, very few commercial manufacturers which produce nutrient-rich food. And they're not the brands you find in your supermarket, or even in most pet stores or vetinarians.
Raw bones with a little dry food as well as occasional rice or pasta, and perhaps the odd quality food scrap from your table, will generally contain most of the nutrients which your dog needs.
All dogs must obtain reasonable nutrition from their food to maintain excellent health and performance. The main nutrients required by your dog are water, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Vitamin or mineral deficiency in dogs fed a commercially manufactured diet today is not widely publicised. But then again, the slosh and dried formulae which are readily available from your vet or the local supermarket are not your dog’s natural diet. If your dog was left to fend for itself in the wild (assuming it could manage to adapt, that is), would choose raw meat. And one of the reasons why meat, and especially bones, are so good, is the chewing action and the teeth cleaning function which the bones perform. Of course, there are also commercially prepared substitutes which can also effectively clean your dog‘s teeth and satisfy his/her need to chew.
A lesser known fact is that to feed your dog only meat (with no bones and no cereals or other carbohydrate source) can cause severe deficiencies: your dog is likely to become lethargic, sick, and even death has been known to occur from an all meat diet. But what about dogs in the wild, I hear you ask? Isn’t meat a dog’s natural diet? Isn’t that what you just said, Brigitte? Well, yes and no: in the wild dogs eat the whole of their prey, not simply muscle meat - they thus obtain vegetable matter from the digestive tract of their prey, and calcium from the bones. As well, wild dogs occasionally, but routinely, add to their diet with plants, fruit and berries.
Most dogs relish some raw fruit and vegetables in their diet, so long as that's what they're used to. A dog who has been fed commercially prepared dog food all of its life won't be used to the taste of fresh food, so may well turn up his/her nose if you introduce such healthy food later in life. But persevere - try hand feeding pieces of carrot or apple to begin with. And if your dog is still very young, all the better. Start as you mean to go on and feed him/her some raw fruit and vegetables from time to time. Your dog's health will benefit!
(c) 2005, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs
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